Jeff Morris
ENCINITAS, CA
IG @swamissurfer

Q&A

Describe yourself in three words:
ABC - Always Be Charging!

What’s your favorite part about the Just Bones Boardwear™ lifestyle?
High quality surf gear that looks good!

What’s your favorite Just Bones Boardwear™ boardshort?
I love them all but if you are going to make me pick, I’m going with “Blacks Beach” because I love GIANT blacks and the shorts look awesome!

What active water sports are you involved in?
Taking shower ;)

Why do you believe it’s important to maintain an active lifestyle?
So I can get chicks ;)

How has Just Bones Boardwear™ influenced your performance?
Believe it or not, I’ve had skulls on my board because I’m an "old bag of bones." The fact that a boardshort company makes a great product that I was already was supporting, makes me want to charge even harder!

What is your advice for someone pursuing an active lifestyle?
ABC - Always Be Charging! 50-years-old is NOTHING!

What other hobbies do you have in your spare time? I love teaching my son, Dane Morris, how to surf. I also love shooting pictures of my son.

What is your favorite local beach and why?
Swamis is my favorite local beach because I live right there and I know it like the back of my hand. I know all of the little secrets about how to catch the best waves when it’s firing. (It's confidential information but I’ll show you, if you paddle out with me.)

What is your favorite destination beach and why?
Puerto Escondido! I love being scared!

What are your top three beach day essentials?
Solid Swell, Big & Nasty, Scary!

How did you start surfing?
I started on a boogie board and began standing up in the 70’s. My first day going to the beach, I took the bus with some friends. We were all going to “share” a boogie board and I was sold the second I hit the water. I didn’t get out until nighttime, after the entire beach was empty, when it was pitch black and I was fried like chicken!

Why do you love surfing?
It’s an addiction. It dominates everything. What other sport can you travel the world, meet new people, dominate as a senior citizen and get pounded for fun?

What’s your favorite memory of surfing?
Unfortunately it’s mostly specific waves I did “NOT” take off on. I can remember a big day at Sunset Beach where I had the biggest tube in front of me and I chickened out. I’ll never forget that wave. I was a teenager. If I talk about riding an “actual” wave, I remember the first day I cut up and down. I had an easy wave at Seal Beach river jetty and the face was so perfect I started “wiggling.” No film evidence to prove that I was cutting up and down, but it felt like it.

What is your surfing philosophy?
Bigger is Always Better!!! I learned that from a friend who passed away in Hawaii and grew up with Laird Hamilton, Titus Kinimaka, and the Ho brothers.

Where is your favorite surf break and why?
I have surfed all over the world but I’d probably go with Baja Malibu. It’s a heavy beach break just south of the border, and it offers some of the best tubes on the West Coast.

What type of board do you use?
I ride everything except longboards.

What are your favorite tricks?
Steep takeoffs. I learned how to do an air reverse in my 40’s but haven’t pulled one since I turned 50 back in April. My goal is to be the first, or one of the first, to pull a documented air reverse in my 50’s.

What was your favorite competition and why?
I got 2nd in a PSAA contest on Northside Huntington when I was a teenager. It was big, it was gnarly, and me and Mike Lambresi were going for a wave. He was too deep and let me go, and I milked that wave to shore.

What is your advice to younger surfers?
ALWAYS SET GOALS. Not that you want to be a professional surfer, but goals that you want to accomplish in the water. I am constantly setting goals of what I want to do surfing and how to get there. For example, I had a goal to see how big I would ride in Puerto Escondido this past August. I found out that I didn’t have big enough nor the right equipment. I found out I wouldn’t ride 40 - 50 foot Puerto Escondido on a 7’2”. Now, I might try it on an 11 foot board.

Who is your favorite surfer?
Tom Curren! The godfather of modern day surfing. We didn’t have videos when I was young. I’d see him in magazines. He was the perfect surfer and everybody in the lineup tried to copy him. I learned one of my most important moves from Tommy - the bottom turn. Everything you do with the lip comes from how well you come off the bottom. I practiced bottom turning for years and it’s one thing that I have perfected.

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